Floral Wonderland!

It took me a year of living in Bangkok to finally make it to Pak Khlong Talat, the wholesale flower market - and now I'm so mad at myself for not having gone earlier! Ever since my visit two weeks ago, our house has been filled with the spoils - tons of gorgeous, vibrant orchids. (Snip the ends of the stems and weed out dying blossoms every couple of days to make the flowers last longer.)

           

The market is located by the river, near Memorial Bridge. I went early in the morning, when it was still relatively cool. The streets and warehouses in the area are filled with fresh flowers (some sections also have veggies) at really cheap prices. I bought five sizeable bunches of different coloured orchids for a grand total of THB 120!

I also got really lucky with my timing and caught the early-morning aerobics class in the flower warehouse. Catchy tunes, an energetic instructor and an enthusiastic group of flower sellers dancing in sync - it was quite the sight! A few minutes in, everyone in the warehouse was shaking a leg, even the old ladies manning their stalls.

Getting there: Take the BTS to Saphan Taksin station, walk down to the pier and hop on to the Chao Phraya Express boat. Get off at the Memorial Bridge Pier (Rajinee in Thai). Just tell the boat staff "flower market" and they'll alert you when you arrive at the right stop. Walk down a few hundred metres - you can't miss it.

Alternatively, if you're going late at night or early in the morning, take a taxi. Tell the driver "Pak Khlong Talat".

Opening hours: 24 hours, 7 days a week

Tip: Smile! It'll get you better prices and all the photo permissions you desire. Case in points: the lovely lady posing with the birds of paradise below.

Hemingway's: A Haven in the Heart of Bangkok

Bangkok offers a seemingly endless range of swish bars, fine dining restaurants, concept eateries, and high-end cafes. Every time I pick up an issue of BK, there are at least 15-20 new "must-try" places in town. I love eating out, so it's been a pleasure trying out many of the city's fancy eating and drinking establishments (along with the amazing street food and hole-in-the-wall gems, of course). 

However, there's only so much "hip-ness" I can take! Eventually, I found myself craving a nice, comfortable place with soul and character and all that jazz – qualities that are sadly lacking in many of Bangkok's fine restaurants and bars. The search led me to Hemingway's on Sukhumvit Soi 14, a minute's walk from the Asok BTS station.  

Hemingway's Bangkok

It was love at first sight  a beautiful old wooden house, cocooned in lush, leafy greenery. As the husband and I walked into the peaceful premises, it was hard to imagine that the chaos of Bangkok was just 60 seconds away! We were greeted with smiles and asked where we would like to sit. Hemingway's is divided into a number of sections; you can choose to sit indoors, outdoors, downstairs, upstairs... Each section has its own name, theme and decor!

The various sections within Hemingway's

We started our afternoon in the upstairs balcony, which had the perfect Sunday brunch atmosphere – languid and lazy, with murmurs of conversation and green leaves shimmering in the warm golden sunshine... I couldn't help imagining Ernest Hemingway sitting at one of the tables, a drink in hand, scribbling furiously in an ink-spattered notebook! 

Balcony tables surrounded by trees

The drinks menu features an absinthe-champagne concoction, recommended by the man himself. I would definitely have got one of those except that it happened to be Valentine's Day, so we went the more traditional route and splurged on a bottle of bubbly! I did, however, take a look at the Happy Hours menu, which is extremely reasonable compared with similar restaurants in the city. (Hemingway's also has a Facebook page that provides details about the various other great deals they have.)

Service is friendly and quick, and the food menu is extensive, containing interesting details and Hemingway-related anecdotes. We had a hard time deciding what to have since lots of dishes looked great! Eventually, we settled for a number of small plates instead of traditional main courses. A plate of the Spanish olives and roasted garlic went beautifully with our drinks. The beef sliders (little cheeseburgers with smoked bacon) are absolutely delicious. We ordered two portions and wished we had gotten three! At THB 160 a plate, they're not cheap but definitely value for money. The goat cheese and wild mushroom quesadillas (THB 195) were a little too cheesy for my palate, but the husband loved them! We also got a portion of the very tasty Cuban meatballs (THB 150) and the nachos (THB 280), which turned out to be a nice, generous helping with crisp tortillas but, strangely, no guacamole – I realised later this may have been an oversight and perhaps I should have asked for it. At the time, I assumed it was intentional. Large plates are upwards of THB 350, while the pastas, pizzas and sandwiches are around THB 250-300.

Beef sliders, nachos, champagne!

After a long, languorous lunch, we stepped inside into the old-world upstairs den. Out came our books and we spent a quiet hour tucked into comfy chairs, reading and sipping our drinks. As the sun set, we made our way downstairs to the garden area for dessert – and now one of my favourite Bangkok memories is eating apple pie and drinking coffee surrounded by tropical plants and vivid red lanterns!

Lush green garden at sunset

All in all, Hemingway's is just my kind of place: gorgeous old house, warm service, thoughtful layout, literary touches, comfort food, drinks with stories, reasonable pricing, and lots of foliage. An ideal spot for great conversations and literary pursuits (reading a good book, or even writing your own!). I'm quite sure Hemingway would have enjoyed getting sozzled with a Death in the Afternoon (or three) here!

The Delights of Wat Pho

Of all the temples in Bangkok, my favourite so far is Wat Pho – the Temple of the Reclining Buddha. Located near the famous Grand Palace, this Buddhist temple complex is a delightful place to relax for a few hours. The massive (and very, very golden) reclining Buddha itself is extremely popular; thus, the building that houses it is fairly crowded. But the rest of the complex has far fewer tourists, making it possible to meander around and take in the stunning shrines and pagodas everywhere. Even on a weekend, there are many quiet corners, waiting to be explored. If you’re keen on a guided tour, there are English speaking guides that can be hired at the entrance for a few hundred baht – remember to bargain, as per usual!

The Reclining Buddha

You’ll have to take your shoes off to enter the giant reclining Buddha viewing gallery, so make sure to wear socks if you're the type of person who doesn't like walking around barefoot where hundreds of other feet have been (like me!). The feet of the reclining Buddha are absolutely gorgeous, inlaid intricately with glimmering mother of pearl. With tons of tourists taking the obligatory selfie, it can be a little difficult to indulge in arty photography or quiet contemplation here!

The feet of the Reclining Buddha

Fortunately, the complex is full of other, calmer delights. Some of the chapels contain endless lines of golden Buddha statues, sitting cross-legged in the lotus position. The detailed murals are also a beautiful sight, even if you don’t understand all the references and stories behind them. The colourful tile-work used in other parts in the complex, particularly on the gorgeous pagodas, actually reminds me a lot of Antoni Gaudi’s typical rainbow-mosaics which are found at tourist sites all over Barcelona! If you or your guests are in Bangkok only for a short time, you can even experience a typical Thai massage in the complex.

Rows of Buddhas in contemplation

Colourful pagodas dot the complex

Wat Pho is open from 8 AM to 5 PM, and massages are on until 6 PM. As well as the Grand Palace, it is situated by the riverside. If you are near a BTS line, a convenient and interesting way to get here is to take the Silom line to Saphan Taksin station. Downstairs lies the Sathorn Pier from where you can catch the Chao Phraya Express Boat to Pier Chang (called "Tha Chang" in Thai) – a single trip to any stop will cost you 40 baht. From Pier Chang, it's about a 10 minute walk to the Grand Palace, and another 10 minutes from there to Wat Pho. Alternatively, simply hop into a cab. Keep in mind that the driver may tell you the palace/temple is closed and attempt to divert you towards a gem exhibition, textile emporium, or some such tourist trap. You might have to insist upon your destination to make sure you get there!

Lovely views, quirky tile-work

The 100-baht entry ticket (compared with the 500 baht you need to shell out to enter the Grand Palace) makes Wat Pho an affordable attraction – one you can keep going back to. When I have visitors in town who are keen to see the Grand Palace, I usually take them to Wat Pho afterwards. Just across the temple entrance is Arom D Hostel, which houses Arom D Café on the ground floor. This little eatery is the perfect spot for a quick bite and drink. The pizzas and pastas are pretty good, and the grilled chicken breast with veggies is my personal favourite on the menu. If you're feeling wealthy and fancy a riverside meal, you can make your way to The Deck for some Thai Fusion food and a great view of Wat Arun across the river.

To The Palace, To The Palace!

So, last weekend the husband and I gave in and finally did the one thing every tourist does in Bangkok: visit the Grand Palace! The sky was ominously overcast in the morning and I was ready to postpone yet again, but the husband took charge and hustled us out of the door, armed with umbrellas and wearing waterproof shows.

There are multiple ways to get to the Grand Palace. We decided to go by boat, which turned out to be an excellent decision. A number of Thai people told us to take a cab because there's very little traffic on a weekend morning but everything's not just about convenience, is it? Especially if you live in the city and aren't pressed for time. So we took the BTS Skytrain to Saphan Taksin. Right under the station, there's a pier where you can buy a 40 Baht ticket for the Express Boat down the Chaophraya River, which is the one that we took. No matter which pier you want to disembark at, it costs 40 Baht. Do make sure you get onto the boat heading in the right direction.

The ferry boat was pretty full by the time it reached our pier. The husband and I got in towards the end so we were lucky enough to have an excuse to stand on the prow - is that the right word? My nautical knowledge is painfully non-existent. Anyway, I'm referring to the seat-less, raised section at the front of the boat. The signs warn passengers not to stand there but frankly, when the inside of the ferry boat is jam-packed, you don't have much of a choice! Anyway, it was a perfect vantage point to observe what was going on on both sides of the river. We passed a bunch of riverside places that will need dedicated exploration time - little temples, low-key cafes, fine dining establishments, and so on. Thanks to the cloudy morning and the nip in the air, the 20-minute journey was absolutely GORGEOUS - despite the occasional floating island of garbage on the Chaophraya River!

For the Grand Palace, you need to get off at Pier ("Tha" in Thai) Chang. However, no-one was calling out the name of the pier where the boat was stopping. As a result a group of about 30 palace-bound foreigners - including us - nearly got off two stops early! Luckily, someone saw the pier name in time and we all clambered back in. When you get off at Pier Chang, you enter straight into a local market. Souvenirs, handicrafts, food, and drinks...it's your typical Bangkok tourist market. There was some sort of religious festival going on the day we went so we were handed free snacks as we walked through - yay!

The palace walls lie just outside the market. On your way to the gate, you will pass various hawkers with sarongs, shirts and hats for rent/purchase. To enter the Grand Palace, men and women must be "decently" clad - avoid shorts, short skirts, sleeveless tops, plunging necklines, raggedy clothes, skin-tight trousers, and so on. You will not be allowed to enter if your outfit is deemed inappropriate! You may also encounter touts and con-men who will try and convince you that the complex is closed. Ignore them and stay the course: the Grand Palace is open every day from 8:30 am to 3:30 pm.

Tickets cost 500 Baht  and - along with the palace itself - include entry into Wat Phra Kaeo (the Emerald Buddha Temple), the Coins Pavilion, and the Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles, all of which are on palace grounds. We skipped the coins (not our style) and textiles (line was too long) but the Temple of the Emerald Buddha was stunning! The Palace itself was also lovely. Those who are impressed by sheer size and gilded glitter will find plenty to be awed by, and those who prefer the little details will enjoy the chance to explore the hidden nooks and crannies of the palace. Audio guides are available for 100 Baht, although we found the free pamphlet handed out at the entrance (available in English, Mandarin, German, etc.) quite adequate to satisfy our curiosity. Someone who is very enthusiastic about history and architecture might do

I won't write about the palace in detail (plenty of online info on the style and buildings). Instead, take a look at the photographs in this article to get a sense of our palace experience!

Khao San & Rambuttri: Hippie-Dippie Bangkok

This Sunday, the husband and I ventured out of our comfort zone of Central Bangkok. We decided to go to the backpacker area known as Khao San Road. There is no BTS/MRT connectivity to Khao San, so we hopped into a meter taxi instead. Twenty minutes and 80 Baht later, we were at our destination! (We were going from Ratchadambri and the driver took a great back route, avoiding practically all traffic.)

Khao San is your typical backpacker haven -- little shops selling junk jewellery and summery clothes, food carts with fresh fruit and noodles, cheap souvenir stalls, currency changers galore, outdoor cafes with cheap drinks... In other words, the perfect place to spend a lazy, laidback Sunday without breaking the bank -- if you're okay with spending a few hours without air-conditioning, that is! 

Khao San Road in all its chaotic yet laidback glory

If you're planning to shop, bargain HARD or stick to the fixed-price stalls. I bought the below earrings for 20 baht and the bracelet for 30 baht at fixed price shops. However, when I asked about the price of the same bracelet at a different shop, the shopkeeper quoted 150 baht (and I'm not even Caucasian -- she would have probably doubled the figure again if I were!). This doesn't really make a difference for a one-off purchase but if you're planning to shop there a lot (like I am), then it definitely adds up.

Trinkets from Khao San Road

We also discovered "ID sellers" in the area! At first, we were perplexed by the boards with hundreds of Identity Cards -- driver's licenses, student cards, work permits -- displayed by the side of the road. "Is it a lost & found board? A lamination service?" we pondered, until we realised that these were fake IDs for sale! I must admit I was extremely tempted to get a student ID (apparently, you get excellent student discounts in Thailand)...alas, better sense prevailed!

We meandered down Khao San Road, sampling street food along the way. At the end, we turned right onto Chakrabongse Road and then turned right again onto Rambuttri Alley, which is where we finally plonked down at the absolutely delightful Macaroni Club (pictured below). Drinks are cheap: a pint of Chang beer is 80 baht and a Jack Daniels + Diet Coke is 140 baht. They also have an extensive menu -- Thai, Continental, Italian, seafood, breakfast-y items like pancakes, waffles, etc. Service is excellent -- friendly and prompt. There's no service charge.

The Macaroni Club, Rambuttri Alley

A bit further down the road lies the utterly charming restaurant below, called (of all things) My Darling. In a strange twist of fate, it turned out to have the EXACT same menu and prices as Macaroni Club. (Perhaps they opened at the same time and got a great deal on the menus???)

We had an early supper of cocktails, beer and pizza. They also serve sheesha after 7 pm -- although at 400 Baht, it is one of the most expensive sheeshas you will find in the city! Service is friendly but slow. The second round of drinks and the fresh coal for the sheesha took ages to arrive. Granted, the place was buzzing with people by then but there seemed to be enough staff members to handle the crowd. By the way, a bottle of wine at both these places is under 1000 baht, which makes them the perfect venues for a reasonable & mildly drunken Sunday brunch! 

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My Darling, Rambuttri Alley

It was dark and pouring by the time we left. We were umbrella-less and quite exhausted with the day's adventures, so we got into the first cab we could find even though the driver overcharged us horrendously (150 Baht for a journey that cost 80 Baht in the morning). Oh well, I'm just going to think of it as an extra "rain charge"!