The Delights of Wat Pho

Of all the temples in Bangkok, my favourite so far is Wat Pho – the Temple of the Reclining Buddha. Located near the famous Grand Palace, this Buddhist temple complex is a delightful place to relax for a few hours. The massive (and very, very golden) reclining Buddha itself is extremely popular; thus, the building that houses it is fairly crowded. But the rest of the complex has far fewer tourists, making it possible to meander around and take in the stunning shrines and pagodas everywhere. Even on a weekend, there are many quiet corners, waiting to be explored. If you’re keen on a guided tour, there are English speaking guides that can be hired at the entrance for a few hundred baht – remember to bargain, as per usual!

The Reclining Buddha

You’ll have to take your shoes off to enter the giant reclining Buddha viewing gallery, so make sure to wear socks if you're the type of person who doesn't like walking around barefoot where hundreds of other feet have been (like me!). The feet of the reclining Buddha are absolutely gorgeous, inlaid intricately with glimmering mother of pearl. With tons of tourists taking the obligatory selfie, it can be a little difficult to indulge in arty photography or quiet contemplation here!

The feet of the Reclining Buddha

Fortunately, the complex is full of other, calmer delights. Some of the chapels contain endless lines of golden Buddha statues, sitting cross-legged in the lotus position. The detailed murals are also a beautiful sight, even if you don’t understand all the references and stories behind them. The colourful tile-work used in other parts in the complex, particularly on the gorgeous pagodas, actually reminds me a lot of Antoni Gaudi’s typical rainbow-mosaics which are found at tourist sites all over Barcelona! If you or your guests are in Bangkok only for a short time, you can even experience a typical Thai massage in the complex.

Rows of Buddhas in contemplation

Colourful pagodas dot the complex

Wat Pho is open from 8 AM to 5 PM, and massages are on until 6 PM. As well as the Grand Palace, it is situated by the riverside. If you are near a BTS line, a convenient and interesting way to get here is to take the Silom line to Saphan Taksin station. Downstairs lies the Sathorn Pier from where you can catch the Chao Phraya Express Boat to Pier Chang (called "Tha Chang" in Thai) – a single trip to any stop will cost you 40 baht. From Pier Chang, it's about a 10 minute walk to the Grand Palace, and another 10 minutes from there to Wat Pho. Alternatively, simply hop into a cab. Keep in mind that the driver may tell you the palace/temple is closed and attempt to divert you towards a gem exhibition, textile emporium, or some such tourist trap. You might have to insist upon your destination to make sure you get there!

Lovely views, quirky tile-work

The 100-baht entry ticket (compared with the 500 baht you need to shell out to enter the Grand Palace) makes Wat Pho an affordable attraction – one you can keep going back to. When I have visitors in town who are keen to see the Grand Palace, I usually take them to Wat Pho afterwards. Just across the temple entrance is Arom D Hostel, which houses Arom D Café on the ground floor. This little eatery is the perfect spot for a quick bite and drink. The pizzas and pastas are pretty good, and the grilled chicken breast with veggies is my personal favourite on the menu. If you're feeling wealthy and fancy a riverside meal, you can make your way to The Deck for some Thai Fusion food and a great view of Wat Arun across the river.

An Ode To Tom Yum Goong

Tom Yum Goong, you culinary conundrum,
fiery, comforting, humble, gorgeous,

you are my new best friend.

My taste buds may be unsure whether you are a treat or a torture device
what with my blazing tongue, watering eyes, running nose
and my general incapacitation as I slurp you down.

Still,

my soul craves your complexity.

your spicy swirls, your tendrils green.

The bits and bobs that make you whole,

make you greater than the sum of your strange parts.

Streetside or high-so / AM or PM / starving or peckish...

you hit the spot

every

single

time

.

To The Palace, To The Palace!

So, last weekend the husband and I gave in and finally did the one thing every tourist does in Bangkok: visit the Grand Palace! The sky was ominously overcast in the morning and I was ready to postpone yet again, but the husband took charge and hustled us out of the door, armed with umbrellas and wearing waterproof shows.

There are multiple ways to get to the Grand Palace. We decided to go by boat, which turned out to be an excellent decision. A number of Thai people told us to take a cab because there's very little traffic on a weekend morning but everything's not just about convenience, is it? Especially if you live in the city and aren't pressed for time. So we took the BTS Skytrain to Saphan Taksin. Right under the station, there's a pier where you can buy a 40 Baht ticket for the Express Boat down the Chaophraya River, which is the one that we took. No matter which pier you want to disembark at, it costs 40 Baht. Do make sure you get onto the boat heading in the right direction.

The ferry boat was pretty full by the time it reached our pier. The husband and I got in towards the end so we were lucky enough to have an excuse to stand on the prow - is that the right word? My nautical knowledge is painfully non-existent. Anyway, I'm referring to the seat-less, raised section at the front of the boat. The signs warn passengers not to stand there but frankly, when the inside of the ferry boat is jam-packed, you don't have much of a choice! Anyway, it was a perfect vantage point to observe what was going on on both sides of the river. We passed a bunch of riverside places that will need dedicated exploration time - little temples, low-key cafes, fine dining establishments, and so on. Thanks to the cloudy morning and the nip in the air, the 20-minute journey was absolutely GORGEOUS - despite the occasional floating island of garbage on the Chaophraya River!

For the Grand Palace, you need to get off at Pier ("Tha" in Thai) Chang. However, no-one was calling out the name of the pier where the boat was stopping. As a result a group of about 30 palace-bound foreigners - including us - nearly got off two stops early! Luckily, someone saw the pier name in time and we all clambered back in. When you get off at Pier Chang, you enter straight into a local market. Souvenirs, handicrafts, food, and drinks...it's your typical Bangkok tourist market. There was some sort of religious festival going on the day we went so we were handed free snacks as we walked through - yay!

The palace walls lie just outside the market. On your way to the gate, you will pass various hawkers with sarongs, shirts and hats for rent/purchase. To enter the Grand Palace, men and women must be "decently" clad - avoid shorts, short skirts, sleeveless tops, plunging necklines, raggedy clothes, skin-tight trousers, and so on. You will not be allowed to enter if your outfit is deemed inappropriate! You may also encounter touts and con-men who will try and convince you that the complex is closed. Ignore them and stay the course: the Grand Palace is open every day from 8:30 am to 3:30 pm.

Tickets cost 500 Baht  and - along with the palace itself - include entry into Wat Phra Kaeo (the Emerald Buddha Temple), the Coins Pavilion, and the Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles, all of which are on palace grounds. We skipped the coins (not our style) and textiles (line was too long) but the Temple of the Emerald Buddha was stunning! The Palace itself was also lovely. Those who are impressed by sheer size and gilded glitter will find plenty to be awed by, and those who prefer the little details will enjoy the chance to explore the hidden nooks and crannies of the palace. Audio guides are available for 100 Baht, although we found the free pamphlet handed out at the entrance (available in English, Mandarin, German, etc.) quite adequate to satisfy our curiosity. Someone who is very enthusiastic about history and architecture might do

I won't write about the palace in detail (plenty of online info on the style and buildings). Instead, take a look at the photographs in this article to get a sense of our palace experience!