March 13, 2015

The Delights of Wat Pho

Of all the temples in Bangkok, my favourite so far is Wat Pho – the Temple of the Reclining Buddha. Located near the famous Grand Palace, this Buddhist temple complex is a delightful place to relax for a few hours. The massive (and very, very golden) reclining Buddha itself is extremely popular; thus, the building that houses it is fairly crowded. But the rest of the complex has far fewer tourists, making it possible to meander around and take in the stunning shrines and pagodas everywhere. Even on a weekend, there are many quiet corners, waiting to be explored. If you’re keen on a guided tour, there are English speaking guides that can be hired at the entrance for a few hundred baht – remember to bargain, as per usual!


The Reclining Buddha

You’ll have to take your shoes off to enter the giant reclining Buddha viewing gallery, so make sure to wear socks if you're the type of person who doesn't like walking around barefoot where hundreds of other feet have been (like me!). The feet of the reclining Buddha are absolutely gorgeous, inlaid intricately with glimmering mother of pearl. With tons of tourists taking the obligatory selfie, it can be a little difficult to indulge in arty photography or quiet contemplation here!

The feet of the Reclining Buddha

Fortunately, the complex is full of other, calmer delights. Some of the chapels contain endless lines of golden Buddha statues, sitting cross-legged in the lotus position. The detailed murals are also a beautiful sight, even if you don’t understand all the references and stories behind them. The colourful tile-work used in other parts in the complex, particularly on the gorgeous pagodas, actually reminds me a lot of Antoni Gaudi’s typical rainbow-mosaics which are found at tourist sites all over Barcelona! If you or your guests are in Bangkok only for a short time, you can even experience a typical Thai massage in the complex.

Rows of Buddhas in contemplation

Colourful pagodas dot the complex

Wat Pho is open from 8 AM to 5 PM, and massages are on until 6 PM. As well as the Grand Palace, it is situated by the riverside. If you are near a BTS line, a convenient and interesting way to get here is to take the Silom line to Saphan Taksin station. Downstairs lies the Sathorn Pier from where you can catch the Chao Phraya Express Boat to Pier Chang (called "Tha Chang" in Thai)  a single trip to any stop will cost you 40 baht. From Pier Chang, it's about a 10 minute walk to the Grand Palace, and another 10 minutes from there to Wat Pho. Alternatively, simply hop into a cab. Keep in mind that the driver may tell you the palace/temple is closed and attempt to divert you towards a gem exhibition, textile emporium, or some such tourist trap. You might have to insist upon your destination to make sure you get there!

Lovely views, quirky tile-work

The 100-baht entry ticket (compared with the 500 baht you need to shell out to enter the Grand Palace) makes Wat Pho an affordable attraction – one you can keep going back to. When I have visitors in town who are keen to see the Grand Palace, I usually take them to Wat Pho afterwards. Just across the temple entrance is Arom D Hostel, which houses Arom D Café on the ground floor. This little eatery is the perfect spot for a quick bite and drink. The pizzas and pastas are pretty good, and the grilled chicken breast with veggies is my personal favourite on the menu. If you're feeling wealthy and fancy a riverside meal, you can make your way to The Deck for some Thai Fusion food and a great view of Wat Arun across the river.

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