Floral Wonderland!

It took me a year of living in Bangkok to finally make it to Pak Khlong Talat, the wholesale flower market - and now I'm so mad at myself for not having gone earlier! Ever since my visit two weeks ago, our house has been filled with the spoils - tons of gorgeous, vibrant orchids. (Snip the ends of the stems and weed out dying blossoms every couple of days to make the flowers last longer.)

           

The market is located by the river, near Memorial Bridge. I went early in the morning, when it was still relatively cool. The streets and warehouses in the area are filled with fresh flowers (some sections also have veggies) at really cheap prices. I bought five sizeable bunches of different coloured orchids for a grand total of THB 120!

I also got really lucky with my timing and caught the early-morning aerobics class in the flower warehouse. Catchy tunes, an energetic instructor and an enthusiastic group of flower sellers dancing in sync - it was quite the sight! A few minutes in, everyone in the warehouse was shaking a leg, even the old ladies manning their stalls.

Getting there: Take the BTS to Saphan Taksin station, walk down to the pier and hop on to the Chao Phraya Express boat. Get off at the Memorial Bridge Pier (Rajinee in Thai). Just tell the boat staff "flower market" and they'll alert you when you arrive at the right stop. Walk down a few hundred metres - you can't miss it.

Alternatively, if you're going late at night or early in the morning, take a taxi. Tell the driver "Pak Khlong Talat".

Opening hours: 24 hours, 7 days a week

Tip: Smile! It'll get you better prices and all the photo permissions you desire. Case in points: the lovely lady posing with the birds of paradise below.

My Experience at BNH Hospital

I just wanted to put this out there for anyone who may be seeking medical treatment in Bangkok: I had a very good experience at BNH Hospital, located on Convent Road in Silom. Yes, they are expensive but in this case I definitely got what I paid for! If you can afford it or your insurance covers it, I would highly recommend going to them for any medical issues. I am briefly outlining my experience with the diagnosis and treatment of an ovarian cyst below in case anyone wants to know more.

I had been experiencing moderate abdominal pain on and off for many months and had put it down to various reasons: indigestion, lactose intolerance, a stitch from running too fast, just one of those things, etc. However, after it occurred three days in a row this February, the husband and I decided it was time to have it checked out. Our insurance carrier recommended BNH Hospital, as did many Thai colleagues. So off we went to meet a GP on Sunday morning.

The hospital lobby resembles a hotel more than a regular hospital. It's clean, spacious, and very calming. It's the kind of hospital I'd generally make fun of ("What is this, a spa or a medical facility?!") but to be honest, the soothing atmosphere really helped later in the day. The folks at the information (reception?) desk at the entrance had us sign up, answer a few basic questions about what was wrong, and led us to the waiting room. We had only a 10-minute wait before meeting the doctor. Unfortunately, it was not "nothing" as we had been hoping. The doctor felt a large "mass" in my abdomen during his examination and proceeded to look rather worried. I was sent for a pregnancy test immediately, after which I was escorted for an ultrasound. After this, we were led to the Women's Health Centre to meet a gynaecologist. 

Of course, I was in a complete panic by this time, so the calm demeanor of the staff and the pretty gardens next to the exam rooms were very welcome. The results from the ultrasound were given to the gynaecologist very quickly and we were able to meet him after a brief wait. He confirmed the presence of a large fluid ovarian lesion (I wasn't able to feel it because it was fluid!), and recommended a pap smear, CA 125 test (cancer marker), and CT scan. The pap smear and blood test were conducted immediately, and I came back the next day for the CT scan. The entire experience was scary and awful, of course, but it would have been far more horrible without the kind English-speaking nurse who explained each step to me, the clean surroundings, and the fact that my gynaecologist met the radiologist as soon as it was over and confirmed the fact that the cyst was completely fluid-filled (good news because cancerous cysts are usually solid or complex).

Still, I wasn't out of the woods yet. Because my cyst had grown so large, I needed surgery to remove it without which I was at risk for rupture or ovarian torsion. The husband and I scheduled the procedure for 10 days later, giving me enough time to wrap up work commitments and free up 6 weeks for post-op recovery. My gynaecologist was going to perform the surgery and he took the time to explain everything quite clearly. I really liked the fact that he was very upfront with me without creating panic. He said the mass was "most probably" benign but that it was only possible to confirm this once the pathology lab was able to examine the cyst. He also explained why a laparoscopy was not possible in my case, as well as why he recommended a spinal block over general anesthesia. Once we confirmed the surgery, a hospital representative asked us about our insurance details and said they would get in touch with the company to sort out the details.

Ten days later, we were back in the hospital, checking into a clean, spacious room. The comfy sofa was great for my husband to crash on. There was even an in-room dining menu! The process was very smooth, and surgery prep went off without a hitch. The nurses are friendly and competent for the most part. There were a few communication hassles due to the fact that not all of them speak fluent English, but miming usually helped things out. My surgical procedure went off smoothly, although the anesthesiologist threw a small spanner in the works just before the procedure by suggesting that general anesthesia may be more suitable. However, having done my own research and being convinced of my surgeon's rationale, I opted for the spinal block.

I was in the hospital for three days after surgery and had a good experience, overall. They weaned me off the heavy-duty painkillers very quickly (a little too quickly for my taste to be honest) and the doctor came by every day to check up on me. I wasn't harassed continually throughout the night as is the case in some hospitals; instead, the nurses would come at regular, well spaced out intervals to check my blood pressure and temperature. The food was decent enough, too. After all, how exciting can anyone make bland soup? Their "real" food was very good though - excellent roast chicken and pad thai! 

My only (small) complaint was that I had to remind them to give us fresh sheets and towels a couple of times, but it was a really small thing compared with the otherwise excellent level of care in the place. All in all, I was a very well looked after patient all the way up until the smiling hospital attendant helped me from the wheelchair into the car that was taking me home - and beyond, in fact! I have been back once for a dressing change, and will return once again after a few weeks for an ultrasound.

Anyway, I hope that none of you ever face any health issues at all - but in case you do and you are in Thailand, BNH Hospital should certainly be on your list of shortlisted healthcare facilities. (Also, if you're a woman and have recurring/constant abdominal pain, please have it checked out sooner rather than later!)

Hemingway's: A Haven in the Heart of Bangkok

Bangkok offers a seemingly endless range of swish bars, fine dining restaurants, concept eateries, and high-end cafes. Every time I pick up an issue of BK, there are at least 15-20 new "must-try" places in town. I love eating out, so it's been a pleasure trying out many of the city's fancy eating and drinking establishments (along with the amazing street food and hole-in-the-wall gems, of course). 

However, there's only so much "hip-ness" I can take! Eventually, I found myself craving a nice, comfortable place with soul and character and all that jazz – qualities that are sadly lacking in many of Bangkok's fine restaurants and bars. The search led me to Hemingway's on Sukhumvit Soi 14, a minute's walk from the Asok BTS station.  

Hemingway's Bangkok

It was love at first sight  a beautiful old wooden house, cocooned in lush, leafy greenery. As the husband and I walked into the peaceful premises, it was hard to imagine that the chaos of Bangkok was just 60 seconds away! We were greeted with smiles and asked where we would like to sit. Hemingway's is divided into a number of sections; you can choose to sit indoors, outdoors, downstairs, upstairs... Each section has its own name, theme and decor!

The various sections within Hemingway's

We started our afternoon in the upstairs balcony, which had the perfect Sunday brunch atmosphere – languid and lazy, with murmurs of conversation and green leaves shimmering in the warm golden sunshine... I couldn't help imagining Ernest Hemingway sitting at one of the tables, a drink in hand, scribbling furiously in an ink-spattered notebook! 

Balcony tables surrounded by trees

The drinks menu features an absinthe-champagne concoction, recommended by the man himself. I would definitely have got one of those except that it happened to be Valentine's Day, so we went the more traditional route and splurged on a bottle of bubbly! I did, however, take a look at the Happy Hours menu, which is extremely reasonable compared with similar restaurants in the city. (Hemingway's also has a Facebook page that provides details about the various other great deals they have.)

Service is friendly and quick, and the food menu is extensive, containing interesting details and Hemingway-related anecdotes. We had a hard time deciding what to have since lots of dishes looked great! Eventually, we settled for a number of small plates instead of traditional main courses. A plate of the Spanish olives and roasted garlic went beautifully with our drinks. The beef sliders (little cheeseburgers with smoked bacon) are absolutely delicious. We ordered two portions and wished we had gotten three! At THB 160 a plate, they're not cheap but definitely value for money. The goat cheese and wild mushroom quesadillas (THB 195) were a little too cheesy for my palate, but the husband loved them! We also got a portion of the very tasty Cuban meatballs (THB 150) and the nachos (THB 280), which turned out to be a nice, generous helping with crisp tortillas but, strangely, no guacamole – I realised later this may have been an oversight and perhaps I should have asked for it. At the time, I assumed it was intentional. Large plates are upwards of THB 350, while the pastas, pizzas and sandwiches are around THB 250-300.

Beef sliders, nachos, champagne!

After a long, languorous lunch, we stepped inside into the old-world upstairs den. Out came our books and we spent a quiet hour tucked into comfy chairs, reading and sipping our drinks. As the sun set, we made our way downstairs to the garden area for dessert – and now one of my favourite Bangkok memories is eating apple pie and drinking coffee surrounded by tropical plants and vivid red lanterns!

Lush green garden at sunset

All in all, Hemingway's is just my kind of place: gorgeous old house, warm service, thoughtful layout, literary touches, comfort food, drinks with stories, reasonable pricing, and lots of foliage. An ideal spot for great conversations and literary pursuits (reading a good book, or even writing your own!). I'm quite sure Hemingway would have enjoyed getting sozzled with a Death in the Afternoon (or three) here!

The Delights of Wat Pho

Of all the temples in Bangkok, my favourite so far is Wat Pho – the Temple of the Reclining Buddha. Located near the famous Grand Palace, this Buddhist temple complex is a delightful place to relax for a few hours. The massive (and very, very golden) reclining Buddha itself is extremely popular; thus, the building that houses it is fairly crowded. But the rest of the complex has far fewer tourists, making it possible to meander around and take in the stunning shrines and pagodas everywhere. Even on a weekend, there are many quiet corners, waiting to be explored. If you’re keen on a guided tour, there are English speaking guides that can be hired at the entrance for a few hundred baht – remember to bargain, as per usual!

The Reclining Buddha

You’ll have to take your shoes off to enter the giant reclining Buddha viewing gallery, so make sure to wear socks if you're the type of person who doesn't like walking around barefoot where hundreds of other feet have been (like me!). The feet of the reclining Buddha are absolutely gorgeous, inlaid intricately with glimmering mother of pearl. With tons of tourists taking the obligatory selfie, it can be a little difficult to indulge in arty photography or quiet contemplation here!

The feet of the Reclining Buddha

Fortunately, the complex is full of other, calmer delights. Some of the chapels contain endless lines of golden Buddha statues, sitting cross-legged in the lotus position. The detailed murals are also a beautiful sight, even if you don’t understand all the references and stories behind them. The colourful tile-work used in other parts in the complex, particularly on the gorgeous pagodas, actually reminds me a lot of Antoni Gaudi’s typical rainbow-mosaics which are found at tourist sites all over Barcelona! If you or your guests are in Bangkok only for a short time, you can even experience a typical Thai massage in the complex.

Rows of Buddhas in contemplation

Colourful pagodas dot the complex

Wat Pho is open from 8 AM to 5 PM, and massages are on until 6 PM. As well as the Grand Palace, it is situated by the riverside. If you are near a BTS line, a convenient and interesting way to get here is to take the Silom line to Saphan Taksin station. Downstairs lies the Sathorn Pier from where you can catch the Chao Phraya Express Boat to Pier Chang (called "Tha Chang" in Thai) – a single trip to any stop will cost you 40 baht. From Pier Chang, it's about a 10 minute walk to the Grand Palace, and another 10 minutes from there to Wat Pho. Alternatively, simply hop into a cab. Keep in mind that the driver may tell you the palace/temple is closed and attempt to divert you towards a gem exhibition, textile emporium, or some such tourist trap. You might have to insist upon your destination to make sure you get there!

Lovely views, quirky tile-work

The 100-baht entry ticket (compared with the 500 baht you need to shell out to enter the Grand Palace) makes Wat Pho an affordable attraction – one you can keep going back to. When I have visitors in town who are keen to see the Grand Palace, I usually take them to Wat Pho afterwards. Just across the temple entrance is Arom D Hostel, which houses Arom D Café on the ground floor. This little eatery is the perfect spot for a quick bite and drink. The pizzas and pastas are pretty good, and the grilled chicken breast with veggies is my personal favourite on the menu. If you're feeling wealthy and fancy a riverside meal, you can make your way to The Deck for some Thai Fusion food and a great view of Wat Arun across the river.

An Ode To Tom Yum Goong

Tom Yum Goong, you culinary conundrum,
fiery, comforting, humble, gorgeous,

you are my new best friend.

My taste buds may be unsure whether you are a treat or a torture device
what with my blazing tongue, watering eyes, running nose
and my general incapacitation as I slurp you down.

Still,

my soul craves your complexity.

your spicy swirls, your tendrils green.

The bits and bobs that make you whole,

make you greater than the sum of your strange parts.

Streetside or high-so / AM or PM / starving or peckish...

you hit the spot

every

single

time

.

To The Palace, To The Palace!

So, last weekend the husband and I gave in and finally did the one thing every tourist does in Bangkok: visit the Grand Palace! The sky was ominously overcast in the morning and I was ready to postpone yet again, but the husband took charge and hustled us out of the door, armed with umbrellas and wearing waterproof shows.

There are multiple ways to get to the Grand Palace. We decided to go by boat, which turned out to be an excellent decision. A number of Thai people told us to take a cab because there's very little traffic on a weekend morning but everything's not just about convenience, is it? Especially if you live in the city and aren't pressed for time. So we took the BTS Skytrain to Saphan Taksin. Right under the station, there's a pier where you can buy a 40 Baht ticket for the Express Boat down the Chaophraya River, which is the one that we took. No matter which pier you want to disembark at, it costs 40 Baht. Do make sure you get onto the boat heading in the right direction.

The ferry boat was pretty full by the time it reached our pier. The husband and I got in towards the end so we were lucky enough to have an excuse to stand on the prow - is that the right word? My nautical knowledge is painfully non-existent. Anyway, I'm referring to the seat-less, raised section at the front of the boat. The signs warn passengers not to stand there but frankly, when the inside of the ferry boat is jam-packed, you don't have much of a choice! Anyway, it was a perfect vantage point to observe what was going on on both sides of the river. We passed a bunch of riverside places that will need dedicated exploration time - little temples, low-key cafes, fine dining establishments, and so on. Thanks to the cloudy morning and the nip in the air, the 20-minute journey was absolutely GORGEOUS - despite the occasional floating island of garbage on the Chaophraya River!

For the Grand Palace, you need to get off at Pier ("Tha" in Thai) Chang. However, no-one was calling out the name of the pier where the boat was stopping. As a result a group of about 30 palace-bound foreigners - including us - nearly got off two stops early! Luckily, someone saw the pier name in time and we all clambered back in. When you get off at Pier Chang, you enter straight into a local market. Souvenirs, handicrafts, food, and drinks...it's your typical Bangkok tourist market. There was some sort of religious festival going on the day we went so we were handed free snacks as we walked through - yay!

The palace walls lie just outside the market. On your way to the gate, you will pass various hawkers with sarongs, shirts and hats for rent/purchase. To enter the Grand Palace, men and women must be "decently" clad - avoid shorts, short skirts, sleeveless tops, plunging necklines, raggedy clothes, skin-tight trousers, and so on. You will not be allowed to enter if your outfit is deemed inappropriate! You may also encounter touts and con-men who will try and convince you that the complex is closed. Ignore them and stay the course: the Grand Palace is open every day from 8:30 am to 3:30 pm.

Tickets cost 500 Baht  and - along with the palace itself - include entry into Wat Phra Kaeo (the Emerald Buddha Temple), the Coins Pavilion, and the Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles, all of which are on palace grounds. We skipped the coins (not our style) and textiles (line was too long) but the Temple of the Emerald Buddha was stunning! The Palace itself was also lovely. Those who are impressed by sheer size and gilded glitter will find plenty to be awed by, and those who prefer the little details will enjoy the chance to explore the hidden nooks and crannies of the palace. Audio guides are available for 100 Baht, although we found the free pamphlet handed out at the entrance (available in English, Mandarin, German, etc.) quite adequate to satisfy our curiosity. Someone who is very enthusiastic about history and architecture might do

I won't write about the palace in detail (plenty of online info on the style and buildings). Instead, take a look at the photographs in this article to get a sense of our palace experience!